Monthly Archives: April 2013

For dessert… Hugs around the table.

It’s been said that you cross paths with people for a reason, season or a lifetime. In my case, I come across so many beautiful connections, I feel like they all have a reason. Some, for that very moment to bring joy or possibly a lesson that is needed at that time in my life. Others, I bond with imminently as if the purpose was to develop an instant friendship that without a doubt would continue on.

If you’ve been following even for a short while, you can remember Ann and Colin from Ecuador. They’re the adorable couple that came to the Donkey Den as I was leaving. With only 2 nights and a short walk to bond, we made plans to hopefully reunite someday either in South America or even back in the states.

Here we are a few weeks ago in Santa Marianita, Ecuador…

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…and now Cusco, Peru!

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We came back together with the intensions of having lunch or maybe a night out, but after a short conversation (and a Cusqueña Negra) it was decided that much more was in our future!

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Not only are we going to hike Machu Picchu together, they’re going to join me as I revisit the home I volunteered in last year! (To see that full experience click here)

We start by meeting up with one of the other volunteers. Abigail is here from England and was all smiles as we made our way to the tiny village of Huambatio. Follow now as we jump from taxi to bus to a decent walk before finally landing at Club Suyai Wari.

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We’ve made it! Now to figure out how to turn on the electricity and water while we wait for Enrique to get home.

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A few unexpected volunteers showed up with backpacks, smiles and an appetite… Problem solved!

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Rise and shine! Time for an adventure in the local school where we’ll be doing anything and everything that we can help with. A gorgeous morning walk leads us to a view that sits beyond this vibrant school. A quick tour before the kids see us!

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Ooh, which door will he go with folks?

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This was a little building full of recyclable designs, representing just a small portion of the reused objects placed within the property. How encouraging to walk around knowing these students are being shown how to use their creative minds!

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Shoe garden, toilet seat… Backpacks! Who needs planters when you can use your old purse? Time to get our hands dirty!

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With 5 happy, healthy and high energized volunteers, why not put us to some solid use? A great workout that will benefit everyone involved. Ready, set, go!

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As we finished up, we were literally taken by the hand and guided in for breakfast.
Step one- Pick a mug and gather around the table.

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Step two- Enjoy half of a hard boiled egg and a cup of warm quinoa soup. I love this place!

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Step three- Gladly return the hugs being passed around the table while holding back the tears of joy that gently fill your heart with the good stuff.

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Finally, rinse your dishes and put them in the bucket for tomorrow’s breakfast.

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Ann was kind (and brave) to walk with me as I tried to remember the way into the next village. Key word tried, as I forgot that there was a small bus that took you most of the way before the jaunt up the hill. Here we are realizing it, then hitchhiking our way to the finish line. Thank you Ann for your positive attitude during our accidental mini journey!

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Categories: Edibles!, Fitness, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The floating islands of Lake Titicaca!

First I arrive to Puno after an 8 hour night ride and wake up to see this as my view out of the bus window.

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After rolling into town, I took a short walk only to run into a very kind couple I had met on the journey over. David and Ros absolutley brightened my evening with their enthusiasm towards my journey, especially the hand stand portion in which they partaked in!

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I’m going to jump right into the purpose of my one night stay here in Puno, sounding just like it’s spelled is Lake Titicaca! Located on the border of Peru and Bolivia, about 3,811 meter above sea level, it’s the highest commercially navigable lake in the world. With man-made floating islands and several other occupied pieces of land, I thought a day trip was well worth my time.

The excursion started with a quick native music performance that led into a peaceful boat ride through this massive body of water. (By volume, it is the largest lake in South America).

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Naturally, I got lucky and met a sweet couple from England that was all smiles and great fun to add to the day. Meet Sarah and Paul as we enjoyed the rooftop and attempted this tricky handstand. With limited space, a round surface completed with the rocking motion, she captured it on the first try!

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Another power duo that brought me more inspiring conversation was Veronica from Ecuador and Harold from Columbia. Now residing in the states, they’re creating ways to support the youth abroad (look for her link soon!).

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First stop is on of one of the many floating islands, home to about 2000 Uros. They live by fishing, weaving and now, tourism. As well as catching fish, they hunt birds such as seagulls, ducks and flamingos, and graze their cattle on the islets. They also run crafts stalls aimed at the numerous tourists who land on the islands each year. Although tourism provides financial opportunities for the natives, it personally gave me mixed feelings about being there. Was this their choice or am I just one more set of footprints on their sacred land?

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Stepping onto the floating island gave you the sensation of walking on a mattress or firm trampoline covered in thick straw. Whether or not the natives were thrilled to have company, they maintained gentle smiles as they welcomed us. We got a lesson on a Totora reed that is often eaten for iodine, can be used to treat hangovers and used in tea. When in pain, the reed can be wrapped around the wound for relief and if it is hot outside, they roll the white part of the reed in their hands and split it open, placing the reed on their forehead as it’s cool to the touch. It tasted like fresh celery and lettuce, yum!

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I chose to stay back and check out the huts rather than taking the jaunt around in the traditional boat.

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This is 18 year old Julia, a new mother that has lived her entire life on the island. I was so thankful that she was eager to sit and talk and even more joyful when she allowed her baby girl to reach out for me.

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Another round with bright sights and kind people as we wrap up this stop.

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After about an hour we headed for one of the largest islands called Taquile. Once you dock, it’s a solid climb to the central plaza for a gorgeous panoramic view. I hope the photos give you at least a partial idea of the incline that these natives live with everyday. Keep a lookout for the elderly man carrying stock up the hill behind me!

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Finally!

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This is a ceremony happening in the center where the “leaders” gather and discuss issues in regards to the island. The hats represent the status of the men and the women are wearing garments that shows she’s married to a political figure.

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Noon hits and we’re guided (by a local in sweet sneakers!) to our hill top lunch that is really in someone’s front yard! Here, the buildings make as homes, tienda’s and restaurants. Up, up we go again!

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Take a seat, enjoy the view and meet Katrina and Emma. These friendly ladies were traveling here from England and made for great lunch dates! We were served quinoa soup and homemade bread with raw salsa. For the main dish, Trout that was caught that morning! There’s no electricity on the island, therefore they can’t keep fish for long resulting in the real use of the term “fresh catch of the day”. Dessert was hot tea made with coca and mint leaves.

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Now for the photo tour of the walk down the other side of the hill.

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The sky darkened as we made our way back to Puno.

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Although today was uniquely entertaining, I’m already looking forward to my departure tomorrow. Returning to one of my favorite cities in South America… I’ll see ya soon Cusco!

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Categories: Edibles!, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Getting lost put me exactly where I wanted to be!

When walking the streets in Arequipa Peru you’ll see more taxi’s than cars and more pedestrians than taxi’s. Mingled in with the traffic and rush of the daily busy life you’ll find street side vendors, children in school uniforms and random sights that are typical to the Peruvian culture.

I’ll start with a grand shot of the Center Plaza including the gorgeous mountain that peaks behind it. Although it was surrounded by busy streets, it seemed to bring the freshest air in the city and what appeared to be every bird.

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I have no idea.

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Leaving from here I made unplanned turns weaving in and out of the alleys and side streets just to see what I could find. Please join me as we get lost!

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This is a school bus with all of the backpacks secured on top, I love it!

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This next photo is special for several reasons. First off, I think it’s precious! Secondly, I literally stopped in my tracks as soon as I heard a famous American pop song blaring from a small tienda. I wanted to snap a photo of exactly what I saw at that very moment. What a contrast to hear Taylor Swift while melting into a different culture.

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I finally found a street that wasn’t bogged down with traffic and as I rounded the corner a four letter word smiled right at me…. Y.O.G.A!

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Not only was it a yoga and massage studio, but turns out they have amazing food as well! I decided to spoil myself and indulge in the everything they offered.

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Here is the yoga/massage room followed by a photo of my yoga instructor and masseuse (which happen to be a happy couple!).

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Brace yourself as I reveal the cost for my day of pampering.
Private yoga class, a delicious lunch and a full body massage = Grand total of $24 US dollars!

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Categories: Edibles!, Fitness, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Peruvian Cooking Experience

I arrived in time to check in at Casa De Avila, grab a shower and meet up with the group for what is called “The Peruvian cooking experience”. I’m usually not the first to sign up for an organized excursion, however this has great reviews and besides, who doesn’t love to cook, eat and drink?

The day started with a guide through the local market, I felt like a little kid in a candy store!

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Anybody else find it hard to order a fresh juice smoothie while sitting across from raw animal “parts”?

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I don’t necessarily have a weak stomach, I just don’t have a strong desire to indulge in this section. Ready… hold your breath… I’ll run through it for you!

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Leaving the edible portion of the market takes you into every other imaginable item you can purchase. There’s fabric, car parts, cooking utensils, pet food, clothes and more. Here’s a glance as we make our way around.

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Peruvians use indigenous animals for both their cuisine and their traditional medicine. Last year I tried roasted guinea pig (by “try” I mean I put it in my mouth and removed it quickly). Here is a dried llama fetes and hanging prepped frogs. They that take these dried up little fellas and blend them into smoothies, soups and other dishes.

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On that note, lets eat! As we return to the kitchen, ingredients are laid out, we suit up and the instruction begin.

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Tradition goes, if you can peel an entire tomato without breaking the skin to create a rose, you are now ready for marriage. Look out world!

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Cooking is complete and now it’s time to eat!

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An amazing meal topped off with yet another new favorite dessert! This is an ice cream made with the protein rich grain of quinoa. Sign me up!

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The end of the experience includes a private lesson on how to make a traditional Peruvian beverage called Pisco Sour.

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This is my Pisco making buddy from England. Scott, I loved the fun conversation and fully appreciate the photo sharing. Cheers till London!

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A very special thank you to the creator and owner Armando. His magical energy keeps this place feeling alive and so welcoming. If you are interested in a fabulous day of local food and drink, please check out the website at Peruviancookingexperience.com

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Categories: Edibles!, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Floor seats in the Lima airport

This is when “Her Happy Trails” has a slight bump into “Her not so Happy Trails”. During my 19 hour trip from Quito to Arequipa, I met some incredible people, took some amazing photos and then instead of pushing “import”, I pushed “delete”! Did your heart just break like mine did? Let me follow that sentence with the full gratitude that I am safe, healthy and still have all of my belongings. Always need to be thankful for the positive side, right?

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Ive departed from Quito and have now checked in for the beginning of my 9 hour layover in Lima Peru. Due to the fact that I had the entire night in the airport, I figured a hot tea and free wifi was a great way to burn some time. Now imagine a vibrant brazillian girl about my age with an unmistakable glow, sitting at a Starbucks coffee table with the only empty chair across from her. I asked to sit with her and in minutes we were chatting away about well, everything! Our conversation felt like two friends that had finally reunited, taking time to share similar traveling stories all the way to discussing the beauty of being in love.

Visualize a photo here of a gorgeous girl with happiness radiating from her eyes. Marcella, you were a such a joy and perhaps I’ll see you in another path crossing!

After a comfortable visit, she offered me the other half of her dinner (which you know cost a bit in the airport) and a sincere hug goodbye. Dinner, tea and a new friend in the first two hours. What a beautiful start!

By this time, it’s 10:30pm and I don’t depart until 5:30am. A stroll around the airport takes you in circles staring with a blank gaze at the over priced souvenirs and sugar filled snack options. This is where the picture was supposed to be of a massive mountain of every candy you could imagine to be purchased by the weight.

I decided to plop down (because sitting is what you do in a chair) and stretch out on the floor. What’s that… Are my ears deceiving me? I hear a familiar song that comes from my home state of California being played. It’s clearly not on the radio and the vocals are in an original tune. I have another 7 hours to find out where this gift is coming from! I didn’t need to search long as I rounded the corner, there sat an adorable guy with his backpack as a cushion and his guitar in hand. I had no hesitation to plop down directly across from him (this time more gracefully of course, due to his magnetic smile) and enjoy the music.

After having floor seats to his private show, we started to chat the usual “where are you from… Why are here…etc.” Instead of describing (and possibly boring you) I’ll just say it was yet another easy conversation with a friend that I was just catching it up with. His genuine smile and kind eyes matched his positive personality that I truly hope to connect with again. Considering he’s based in LA, another long layover might be in my near future!

David, I’m so sorry that the priceless photos I took of you were deleted, this simply means we need a retake! I cheers to your experiences that led you to the cold floor in Lima… honored to have been apart of it.

They say “time flies when you’re having fun”, or in my case, when you’re reconnecting with new friends. It’s now 2am and I figure a nap would be better than nothing at all, so I headed to my gate and dozed off to be woken up with the boarding call to Arequipa.

I survived the flight which was one of the most turbulence filled that I’ve had in awhile and collect my bags. Red eyed yet thrilled to be back in Peru, I see my ride to the hotel where I had reservations. I thought for sure, it was my exhaustion when I was struggling to comprehend his sign.

As if I didn’t need another reason to smile, look at what they thought my name was… this HAS to be me!

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Next post in Arequipa… Sneak peak!

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Categories: Travel talk, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

Can you balance in a handstand on the equator?

My final 48 hours in Ecuador was spent in the capital city called Quito. Between checking in, checking out, bus transfers and rides to the airport, my “tourism time” was limited so I’m going to wrap it ip in one post.

Although it was a short visit, my adorable accommodations made for the perfect hideaway from the busy streets surrounding it. The Butterfly Hostel is a combination of rooms for temporary guests and apartment styled living for extended stays.

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The kitchen was useful and the common area was overflowing with vibrant colors.

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The owner Diana is beyond welcoming, almost instantly feeling like family. She helped with directions, local eats and “anything needed”. Thank you for the wonderful conversations and warm greetings!

Exiting the hostel took me on a fun walk through the popular neighborhood called Mariscal, otherwise known as the tourist district or “gringolandia”. I really didn’t spend too much time exploring here because my ultimate goal for the day was to get to the equator.

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My trek of reaching the equator consisted of a walk to the metro that dropped me off at the terminal to board the bus to the final transfer leading me to the “Metad de Mundo”. (Middle of the world -aka- the equator). Due to the crowded journey and not so safe areas, the pictures I captured along the way were minimal.

These are the only two photos I snagged. First, a woman selling chocolate covered strawberries topped with a marshmallow. I have yet to mention how much they love their marshmallows here!

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To my knowledge, this isn’t a typical sight but it made me instantly say in my head, “In case of an emergency, please use as a flotation device”.

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As I finally made it to the entrance of the park, I was fully prepared for the mobs of tourists and families that would be following the guides.

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Hmm, looks like I have the place to myself. I actually felt a little awkward walking around this huge park as one of the only visitors.

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Most of the store tenants that I passed appeared to be so eager to see another human, that it almost felt mandatory to stop and look at every shop. Even harder to say “no gracias” to all of them.

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I made it!

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They say it’s hard to walk in a straight line on the equator, turns out standing on your hands is easier!

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On the way back I treated myself to a frozen yogurt, just my size! Can you imagine a chain shop in the states trying to stay in business selling this option?

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I now leave Quito with a major announcement to all of the people who know and share my love for frozen desserts. An Ecuadorian traditional delight has now topped my list over ice cream, gelato and brace yourself… Even better than frozen yogurt!

Helado de Paila means “ice cream from a copper pan.” Sugar, pure fruit pulp, and egg whites are placed in a brass pan, which is on a bed of ice, sea salt and straw (to slow down the melting of the ice). The pan must be previously prepared by boiling it for three days with ash and bitter orange. The ingredients are then stirred as long as necessary to make the mixture freeze.

This simple but time consuming process develops what I can best describe as the creamiest snow cone mixed with the iciest frozen yogurt. My favorite part is the extremely cold, firm texture that prevents it from instantly melting in the South American sun.

I preferred the non traditional flavors that included but wasnt limited to chocolate and my personal favorite of vanilla. I devoured mine with so much enjoyment that I forgot to take a picture! Here are a few I found online. Introducing Helado de Paila!

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Well that’s it for now Ecuador, next stop is Peru!

Travelers tip: I highly suggest not going on a city search for Piala the day of your flight out of the country… Without a map! I barely found my way back before heading to the airport. Oops.

Categories: Accommodations, Edibles!, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , | 1 Comment

The Rastafarian Cancun of Ecuador, Montañita

Montañita is a growing town that was once a hidden gem for local surfers. Back in the 60’s it was a fishing village and linked to the hippie movement, thus explaining the Rastafarian vibe that still exists today. Amongst the several residence, there’s a large population of backpackers, beach bums and travelers just passing through. I was told it’s the “Cancun of Ecuador” and to enter with an open mind, no intentions of sleeping and to have a proper exit plan. Thankfully, I had Sophie with me and we were both on a chill vibe during our whopping 30 hours in this tornado of controlled chaos.

We checked into our hostel, knowing not much time will be spent there. Quick tour of the Iguana Backpackers Hostel. The front area with kitchen is small, but a few backpackers show that it still does the job.

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In the back there’s a relaxed open area for well, anything you want!

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Our room equipped with the necessary sleeping nets. Ps, having the mosquitos trapped in with you is not beneficial to a good nights sleep.

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My favorite part of this entire hostel was the sign that made me giggle out loud when it caught my eye.

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Approaching the outside of town, it looks so innocent and welcoming.

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As you turn the corner and head into the main strip, the vibrancy begins to deliver.

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Perfect handstand photo, thanks Sophie!

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Ceviche on the street? Yes please! The choices were shrimp, conch or fish. We shared a mix of shrimp and fish to be topped off with hot sauce and corn nuts.

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Fortunately for us, there was surf finals happening the day we were there! After observing the streets we agreed is was time for sandy toes. Here’s the walk as we head towards the competition.

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I haven’t had a real snow cone in years! I skipped out on the green goo topped with condensed milk and went with the piña and fresa (pineapple and strawberry).

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As we near the action, you could feel the energy was building. Over the roar and applause, you could hear the announcer listing countries with their scores. Both of us had a confused grin as he says, “Ecuador… Peru… Brazil… Hawaii… and…” Now I’m not a part of the surf world, so there’s probably something I’m missing, I just didnt realize Hawaii had separated into it’s own country.
An additional peculiar thing, is seeing a sun loving surf crowd fully clothed, on the beach! Bizarre or am I unaware of another memo?

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I also didn’t realize it was relay style. One would sprint out of the water as the other was racing in. Apparently I need to study this sport a little more before I observe!
Side note: If you say you’re from California, expect to give a full explanation to why you don’t surf.

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I thought these were pretty cool shots.

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As the sun goes down, the crowd doesn’t stop. In fact, the streets light up and what was once the fruit stands have turned to drink stands and the restaurants are now dance clubs.

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Believe it or not, that’s all you get from my evening pictures, as we turned in for an early nights rest before the bus tomorrow. (Yes Bevan, I know… I’ll have to try again with you next time).

My favorite photo of the day in Montañita!

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This was also the last evening spent with my (perfectly opposite) new pal Sophie.
You were such an unexpected gift that enhanced my journey along the coast of Ecuador. Cheers to broken bunk beds, awkward email names, and no bananas in a smoothie… ever. I send you off with much love and a “Salud” till next time!

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Isla de Plata! -aka- “The poor mans Galapagos.”

Our morning started off with a walk to the sea where we got some time to observe the daily routines of the Puerto Lopez fisherman.

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Observation number 1: Duck and cover doesn’t always work when there are this many birds. One of the sweet girls from our group got an unpleasant drop from above.

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Looks like “catch of the day” will be shark.

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As the boat arrives, it’s requested that our shoes come off for the hour journey to the island. Not to completed without our “yes, I’m on a tour” safety vest.

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Along the way they made sure we got the full experience including a family of dolphins playing around!

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As we approached the island, it was clear why so many take time and energy to maintain such a beautiful piece of land. Pirates or locals, maybe a bit if both?

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Either way they smiled and gave a head nod as our entire boat made “ooh” and “awh” sounds at the turtles and fish that surrounded us!

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We get to debark and after a quick foot rinse, the tour begins!

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They warned her that flip flops weren’t a good idea. In her words, “It seems the urge to say I told ya so is universal”. First one, then both in hand.

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Sophie commented on my fashion statement. Well, my ears were burning… Problem solved!

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The trek takes you up, down and around the coast of this gorgeous place with the intention of getting a glimpse if several of the native animals. Up to this point, the only other living creature that seems to be welcoming themselves are the mosquitos that love to squeal in your ear and make incredible eye contact. (I actually got bit on the eye lid!)

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Finally spotted the Blue Footed Boobies!

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We make it to one of the highest points for these amazing views!

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Fun with effects!

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After the climb, we’re back in the boat for a pit stop that we’ve all been waiting for… Sun and swimming!

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As we make the final stretch, what Ecuadorian boat tour wouldn’t be complete without motor trouble… Again.

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If you notice the swells in the back ground are definitely creating a rock to the boat that leads me to switch places with this poor guy who was getting sea sick. (Sophie and I were making faces at the boat trouble, but his natural expression puts ours to shame).

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Back on shore (lucky for the sick guy) and I leave you with one last photo with a snazzy effect. What a day!

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Categories: Fitness, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

New friend + new path = F.U.N!

It’s been a couple of days now and Sophie and I have stuck to our plans to head south together. Having a travel buddy adds a different energy to the journey and one that I’m always up for! (Hint-hint to all of the people who say they want to join me. When you want something strong enough… you make it happen. I know you can do it!)

We’re packed up and ready to depart from the Donkey Den and say farewell to the friends we’ve made here.

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Another truck, another walk and another bus to get to our next destination.

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I know exactly how you feel buddy.

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We stopped here in Puerto Lopez for the gateway to visit the Isla de Plata, otherwise known as “The poor mans Galapagos”. I’m going to save the island tour as a completely separate post, simply due to it’s beauty and entertainment value.

A quick view at our new bedroom with a complimentary look at the guilt stricken face on Sophie as she “reconstructs” the ladder that she “disassembled”.

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While cooking one morning in the outdoor kitchen, I starting talking with this guy from Argentina that is traveling around selling his jewelry. Of course I donated to his journey as he was eager to design one specifically for me. With the flame sealing the deal, you’ll see this anklet on me for awhile. Oh the days of backpacking at it’s best!

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A walk around Puerto Lopez that leads us to the beach!

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Instead of shopping our way through town, we decided to eat! Considering most items cost from $0.25 to $2, we thought to buy one of anything that looked interesting and share all of it! Let the taste buds begin! (This was done over a few days).

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Sunset brings a great evening before we rest up for our day on the island. Buenos noches!

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Categories: Accommodations, Edibles!, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Pretend work and real play with my new friends at The Donkey Den!

After my amazing welcoming present of the fishing last night (that fun post seen here) I wake up to get a nice tour before getting started with the others.

Looking at the guesthouse from the beach.

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The view off the balcony looking back at the beach.

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A walk through the kitchen and outdoor dining area followed by a peak in our room.

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Did I mention there are 5 very relaxed dogs and 9 lazy cats?

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Here is the creator, owner and very well known, sweet Linda. A generous woman who clearly has a strong drive considering she built this guesthouse from the ground up. I really have a hard time imagining the process she must of went through being new to Ecuador and having very limited knowledge of the Spanish language. That alone speaks in volume for her patient yet feisty personality.

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We’re all here to pitch in to bring this place as far as it can go. Meet a power couple that has been here for two months already and has transformed the Donkey Den to what it is today. All the way from Australia, “just passing through” is Bernie and Trevor. (He usually doesn’t rock the pink top, but i think its a job well done).

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Ann and Colin are what I believe to be a perfect balance of outgoing and grounded. With their creative powers combined, this adorable team turns everything they touch into a work of art. The love they have for one another is shown through respectful words and kind conversation. When I grow up… I want to be just like them!

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PS: Ann has a blog too. Check her out at NeverLostAnn!

Finally, there’s Sophie. She’s laid back, naturally funny and extremely easy to talk with. Traveling through South America, we connected at the right time in the perfect place for our paths to cross and continue. Within hours of meeting we had plans to skip town together and spend a week heading south. For now, more work in the Den.

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When the days work (if you call it that) is finished, you have many options to fill your time.

There’s reading, writing or sleeping in the hammocks -aka- “Hammock Therapy”.

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Taking a walk through the town.

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Our favorite is beach time of course!

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I had a little (a lot) of fun getting side tracked with a stick in the sand and effects on my camera!

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Each evening promises a gorgeous sunset to calm the mind and welcomes another peaceful night of realization that this is my life… I am so grateful.

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Categories: Accommodations, Art, Edibles!, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , | 6 Comments

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